Tuesday, November 2, 2010

eat. pray. love.

But unlike Miss Gilbert, I'm learning them all at the same time! I've been putting off updating as it is difficult to get on the internet when electricity is hard to come by. But just an update:
  • It's been hot enough to where I need to take at least  3 showers a day.
  • I've suffered my first good sunburn & [most] people stop commenting on how white I am.
  • I am forever falling in love with Bali & Indonesia...
Bali smells like heaven. The fresh flowers & incense permeate the air, accompanied by green green green, everywhere. How do I put into words my love for indonesia when things that are indescribable, such as love, cannot be contained within the boundaries of words? Art is life in Bali, and I think this may be part of the reason I feel at home in my heart here. Music, dance, visual art, sculpture, masks, textiles, design. Each day, I'm feeling less like a traveler and more like I'm living here. I write this from Ubud, in central Bali, the natural healing and arts mecca of the island. I've found a great [modest] place off of the main strip of town, & I could easily see myself creating a peaceful abode here.  I'm surrounded by natural gardens, & have an amazing outdoor bathroom [although yesturday when it was pouring rain, the notion of going to the bathroom wasn't so romantic anymore]... I've been doing some yoga, and have met some really great people.


Just a small taste of the Ngaben procession, Ubud, Bali.
Today my local friends & I went to watch the Ngaben [cremation ceremony] of a member of the royal family. I believe he was a king, so it was an extravagent event where hundreds of thousands of people filled the street [it was CHAOS] at the peak of the midday sun. The ceremony actually comprises many days of separate ceremonies leading up to the main procession. Today was that day... members of the royal family, musicians, and trucks spraying holy water to cleanse the street were followed by the massive pyres [a white bull carrying the corpse & an extravagant temple respresenting the material possesions of earthly life] carried by hundreds of pallbearers to the cremation site. The course is uneven, with much shaking & yelling, to shake off any evil spirits that may be hanging around. Tomorrow the ashes will be sent to the sea, to complete the cycle of the five elements. No tears are shed, because the deceased is only temporarily not present and will reincarnate or find his final rest in Moksha(freeing from the reincarnation and death cycle). It was one of the craziest, most amazing thing I have ever experienced, let alone the most lively & fun funeral I have ever been to!

I have now been in Indonesia for almost two weeks. I always say there is magic here, & people find this a vague statement unless they've been here themselves. The cultural psyche is deeply rooted in a dualistic world: one that exists in the physical realm of what we can see, smell, taste, & touch - but more importantly is the world of the unseen. Gods, spirits, the energy that creates the universe, and our own thoughts are what create our circumstances. If an entire culture's tradition is seeped in mystic & magic, then what we believe, we see.


I have had some amazing experiences here, from my previous travel here before, and the short time spent here now. I will spare the specific stories for now [for those really curious, we'll talk personally], out of respect for the beliefs, but I can say it is amazing to see belief at work. I am finding a lot of new gratitude for life. & that's not to say I had none before, but it is so humbling to realize everyday how lucky we are just to breathe, eat, & have safe shelter. With this realization, insignificant things fall away, & you are left with now. And life here really begs to be lived in the moment.
There are disasters happening all around us, & it seems like hardships are the norm for such a poor country. With that said, it is amazing to see the optimistic view of life the locals have here. They know living simply has it's benefits since life is so fleeting and everything is impermanent. Many lessons being learned, but with that they are put into practice every day... Everyone is like one big family... we share everything: food, music, laughter. If someone is lucky enough to have, since many have not, we share. We also make offerings of everything we eat and drink. I found it hard to remember at first, but while reading some Chopra I came across his words about "giving is giving back to God, what is God's". & Those words have really stuck with me.


The past few weeks have been spent between Bali, Lombok, & Gili Trawangan where my Indonesian 'family' lives. It's been a year since I've seen them, and I was SOOO happy to see my 'sister' Iluh and my sweet girls, Emy & Stella. They bring much joy to our simple days. I'm picking up more & more language every day, & my fascination with the knowledge of words is finally being satiated.


I think Ubud will be on my plate for the next few days, at least... more to share but I'll save it for next time.
Thankful for your eyes & your presence in my life, hope all are well!