Tuesday, November 2, 2010

eat. pray. love.

But unlike Miss Gilbert, I'm learning them all at the same time! I've been putting off updating as it is difficult to get on the internet when electricity is hard to come by. But just an update:
  • It's been hot enough to where I need to take at least  3 showers a day.
  • I've suffered my first good sunburn & [most] people stop commenting on how white I am.
  • I am forever falling in love with Bali & Indonesia...
Bali smells like heaven. The fresh flowers & incense permeate the air, accompanied by green green green, everywhere. How do I put into words my love for indonesia when things that are indescribable, such as love, cannot be contained within the boundaries of words? Art is life in Bali, and I think this may be part of the reason I feel at home in my heart here. Music, dance, visual art, sculpture, masks, textiles, design. Each day, I'm feeling less like a traveler and more like I'm living here. I write this from Ubud, in central Bali, the natural healing and arts mecca of the island. I've found a great [modest] place off of the main strip of town, & I could easily see myself creating a peaceful abode here.  I'm surrounded by natural gardens, & have an amazing outdoor bathroom [although yesturday when it was pouring rain, the notion of going to the bathroom wasn't so romantic anymore]... I've been doing some yoga, and have met some really great people.


Just a small taste of the Ngaben procession, Ubud, Bali.
Today my local friends & I went to watch the Ngaben [cremation ceremony] of a member of the royal family. I believe he was a king, so it was an extravagent event where hundreds of thousands of people filled the street [it was CHAOS] at the peak of the midday sun. The ceremony actually comprises many days of separate ceremonies leading up to the main procession. Today was that day... members of the royal family, musicians, and trucks spraying holy water to cleanse the street were followed by the massive pyres [a white bull carrying the corpse & an extravagant temple respresenting the material possesions of earthly life] carried by hundreds of pallbearers to the cremation site. The course is uneven, with much shaking & yelling, to shake off any evil spirits that may be hanging around. Tomorrow the ashes will be sent to the sea, to complete the cycle of the five elements. No tears are shed, because the deceased is only temporarily not present and will reincarnate or find his final rest in Moksha(freeing from the reincarnation and death cycle). It was one of the craziest, most amazing thing I have ever experienced, let alone the most lively & fun funeral I have ever been to!

I have now been in Indonesia for almost two weeks. I always say there is magic here, & people find this a vague statement unless they've been here themselves. The cultural psyche is deeply rooted in a dualistic world: one that exists in the physical realm of what we can see, smell, taste, & touch - but more importantly is the world of the unseen. Gods, spirits, the energy that creates the universe, and our own thoughts are what create our circumstances. If an entire culture's tradition is seeped in mystic & magic, then what we believe, we see.


I have had some amazing experiences here, from my previous travel here before, and the short time spent here now. I will spare the specific stories for now [for those really curious, we'll talk personally], out of respect for the beliefs, but I can say it is amazing to see belief at work. I am finding a lot of new gratitude for life. & that's not to say I had none before, but it is so humbling to realize everyday how lucky we are just to breathe, eat, & have safe shelter. With this realization, insignificant things fall away, & you are left with now. And life here really begs to be lived in the moment.
There are disasters happening all around us, & it seems like hardships are the norm for such a poor country. With that said, it is amazing to see the optimistic view of life the locals have here. They know living simply has it's benefits since life is so fleeting and everything is impermanent. Many lessons being learned, but with that they are put into practice every day... Everyone is like one big family... we share everything: food, music, laughter. If someone is lucky enough to have, since many have not, we share. We also make offerings of everything we eat and drink. I found it hard to remember at first, but while reading some Chopra I came across his words about "giving is giving back to God, what is God's". & Those words have really stuck with me.


The past few weeks have been spent between Bali, Lombok, & Gili Trawangan where my Indonesian 'family' lives. It's been a year since I've seen them, and I was SOOO happy to see my 'sister' Iluh and my sweet girls, Emy & Stella. They bring much joy to our simple days. I'm picking up more & more language every day, & my fascination with the knowledge of words is finally being satiated.


I think Ubud will be on my plate for the next few days, at least... more to share but I'll save it for next time.
Thankful for your eyes & your presence in my life, hope all are well!

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Selamat Datang ke Malaysia

Remaining fragments of light, my last night in the Philippines.

I leave the Philippines with a smile, and an open heart. I am thankful for my simple time spent there, and lucky to have escaped the approaching Typhoon! ...It was a close one... I really enjoyed my experiences not seeing any tourist for an entire week! Needless to say, it was strange seeing fellow travelers again upon reaching Malaysia.

Rambutan at Chinatown Market.
Kuala Lumpur. Quickly becoming the city where I rarely sleep. Returning again to Chinatown, the backpackers district, I am reminded of the vibrancy I love about this city. A cultural melting pot & paradise...There are people from EVERY walk of life. Malays, Chinese, Indian, Persian, African - & that barely begins to scratch the surface. My hunger for stimulation of the senses is satiated here. & with this colour palate of culture, comes amazing [did I say amazing?] food. It's cheap, it's delicious, & you can find it any time of day [or night]. I see people eating, drinking, & laughing @ 4 AM after dancing all night. I love it...

It's nice to see the familiar faces of my local friends. We can usually be found at Mom's shop [a street hawker stall with delicious Nasi Goreng (fried rice), Mei Goreng (fried noodles) & Nasi Lemak (Coconut Rice)]. Angela, Andrea, Simon, & Kipp... Everyone is asking about you!

Rice Porridge for breakfast!
I have retained some of my Malay/Indonesian, so it is nice to be able to converse a little and understand what people are saying on the subway. I am anxious to learn more and have been studying from my phrasebook whenever I get the chance.

The escape
I have seen much of what is to be seen in KL, but my dear friend Elmi took me to a beautiful waterfall just outside the city yesturday. We hiked up, weaving through monkeys looking for handouts, above where most people where enjoying the water. Ridiculously hot & sweaty, a hot mess if you will, we were blessed to have an amazing spot under the fall... all to ourselves, sharing only with the monkeys, fantastically huge butterflies, & the never ending sea of green. It was a needed escape & grounding experience. Peace was in reach, because we were at peace. I thought about traveling alone, but how far from being lonely I was. Sharing this experience with an old acquaintance who quickly became a lovely friend, I am thankful for him and the good soul that he is.

I am enjoying one final night in KL, before going, going, back back to BALI BALI!

Excitement is building for the magic to come...

Friday, October 15, 2010

First steps...

My first blog![it still sounds funny in my head]. This is the infamous intro-blog, somewhat simple and to the point...Lacking creativity & awesome seat-of-your-pants stories. Bare with me! This serves to keep the ones I love updated on wherever I may be in the world, since I have trouble keeping track as it is. 
4 days I have been here. The Philippines - not a place I ever really expected to be. Well, things fall into place and work as they do, so here I am! 

Philippine transport: the tricycle
Having traveled in SE Asia before, I anticipated more or less what was to come. I am, however, pleasantly surprised each & every moment. The energy here is different. Still assaulting to the senses... the smells, bright lights, honking motorbikes & yelling street hawkers. The people are different & I have yet to put my finger on it. Everyone of course is friendly, but unlike Indonesia or Thailand where people get in your face & want to know everything about you, my encounters with strangers have been met with a quiet curiosity. They stare [and I mean STARE - double & triple takes] but few say much, instead I feel the eyes of judging observation. It seems they are crafting stories about me or wondering what I am doing here. I did say hello to someone and they quickly replied yelling, "I LOVE YOU!".

There are no westerners or tourists in the small city I'm in. Sticking out is an gross understatement. I have noticed that everyone sings, ALOT. When they are walking on the street, talking with their friends, at work...Karaoke is the national pastime, and not to be taken lightly, or comically as I see it. I walk down the street and hear a lot of early nineties soft rock hits, a lot of Christmas songs, and TOO MANY Justin Beiber-esque chart toppers.


Michaella [Ging-ging]...Such a sweetheart she is!
I am about 2 hours north of Manila, in San Fernando, Pampanga Province. Kapampangans are known for the best cuisine in the country, and I believe it. I am eating WELL.
I am staying with a friend who is living & going to school here. I'm enjoying a quiet paced life with his family. His niece & nephew, Michaella & Francis have quickly become my good buddies while the family is doing their regular routine. We have limited communication, although Francis [8] being extremely intelligent & good with his English can translate more for me, but we laugh and play, and speak with our smiles. I am slowing down and so grateful for the simple moments. 

I feel at home with my backpack & traveling legs again. This is how I know myself, on the move. 
For now I will close, there are many things to do & see before I leave to the next destination.!